Posted on August 13th, 2013
The other night my inner rebellious glutton was jonesing for some city food and fun. I couldn’t make as far as NYC, to my former and adored concrete-and-lights home away from home, so I drove an hour north of Point Judith, to Providence for birch. This brand-new, slick, yet low key 18 seat restaurant is the latest creation of passionate Rhode Island Chef Ben Sukle and his wife/business partner Heidi. During this much anticipated 4 course meal (for a reasonable price) I dined on some super fancy foods that brought me back to NYC for a moment in a sophisticated blend of modernity, tradition and elegance. Chef Ben explained to me that his menu is based on natural, local ingredients fished, farmed and foraged New England throughout the year. He keeps his dishes simple and coherent yet interesting, for example the fragrant and some say medicinal, local weed, yarrow found in Chef Ben’s Narragansett Bay littleneck -laced-carrot-roast pictured above. In other amazing events during the meal I had a taste of the very seasonal, summer sea scallop pictured below:
The meat and potatoes came in the form of swordfish served in a broth atop pressed onions and melt in your mouth yellow squash:
I’ve never been much of a swordfish eater but let me tell you, this fish was pillowy-soft, fresh and very delicate. It was excellent. So, if you are searching for healthy, exciting meal made from New England’s finest kinds, go see Ben and Heidi at birch, and transport yourself to wherever you wish you were.